The runways in Paris have opened again! Taking centre stage this week is designer’s Fall/Winter haute couture collections and fashion fanatics from around the world have spent the last few days marvelling at all the intricate pieces. One of the most buzzworthy shows this week has been, without a doubt, Iris Van Herpen’s standout collection.
This Dutch designer teamed up with American kinetic sculptor Anthony Howe to create a memorable collection inspired by the movement of wind. While this theme seems a bit eccentric at first, there’s no one better than Van Herpen to bring this idea to life. Models strutted down the runway in fully mechanized, rippling dresses that stunned onlookers. The designer, famous for the cutting edge technology she uses, employed many different techniques for her dresses. From laser cutting to the ancient Japanese art of Suminagashi (floating ink on water), Van Herpen used master artistry for her dresses.
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‘Hypnosis’ reflects the beauty and complexity of our environment, exploring the patterns and structures within its fragile landscape ∞ the ‘Hypnosis’ technique, developed in collaboration with Professor Philip Beesley involves ten of thousands of plottercut mini ripples that continuously dissect the dress through each movement of the body, revealing skin in between the whimsical spheroid patterns that are designed to move faster than the eye can follow. ∞ Show credits Special thanks to collaborating artist: @anthony.howe.art Collaborating artist: @philip.beesley Video by @blitzkickers Styling: @patti_wilson Music direction: @sssalvadorrr Model: @iamsabaah Casting: Maida Gregory Boina, @maximevalentini & @caromauger Make up: @silbruinsma1 & the @maccosmeticsfrance PRO Team Hair: @martincullen65 for @streetersldn Shoes by @unitednude Manicure: @jessicascholten_ Press: @karlaotto ∞ #irisvanherpen #hypnosiscouture #parisfashionweek
The collection, aptly named “Hypnosis”, had a selection of dresses that rippled and draped over the body in an entrancing way. The color palette was kept simple and purposeful. Many dresses were black and white, which tied in well with the idea of hypnosis — as black lines ran all over the dresses, you couldn’t help but be pulled in. Some dresses had more color, such as the “Poiesis” and “Suminagashi” dresses. The Suminagashi dresses drew inspiration from old Japanese patterns of floating ink on water. The dress itself faded from white to burgundy and the red bottom of the dress looked like it was dipped in paint. This visual effect was captivating and the influence of ancient art added an interesting dimension to the dress. The Poiesis dress seemed like a walking watercolor painting. Different warm colors danced all over the dress, creating a kaleidoscope of colors that melted into the skin. Both dresses used transparent tulle to create the effect of the dress blending into the body — a common visual theme in Van Herpen’s works.
All of the dresses had very intricate and delicate patterns, which were contrasted by the bold silhouettes. Van Herpen’s broke the mould of traditional tailoring in favour of ballooning dresses that seemed to capture movement in time. The shape of a dress is always unique and different with her designs, leaving a memorable image in your mind. The makeup and hair in the show were minimalistic, but it was still sleek and elegant. This was the perfect choice for this show as it allowed the dresses to remain the focal point.
As we barrel into the future, technology is constantly changing and growing. The future of fashion is deeply intertwined with this technological advancement and it will change the face of fashion. As we adopt new trends and styles, Van Herpen’s technological innovation will remain an integral part of this growth. Fashion is constantly changing and weaving new patterns for itself and Van Herpen is establishing a place for herself in the future of fashion.
Van Herpen consistently takes the classic, elegant styles of dresses and catapult them into the future. Her pieces are both dystopian and refined in nature. Her haute couture collection did not disappoint and I can’t wait to see what places of wonder she takes us to with her next work.
Featured Image Via Iris Van Herpen’s Official Instagram